Berner Bach Chor likes to “beat the music to death”, in other words, they want their performances to be perfect so they rehearse intensely. This week this meant Jon had an extra Saturday rehearsal, originally planned for 2 pm to 9 pm, but changed to 2 to 6. Friday we had friends over for dinner who reminded us that this was the last Bern Free Museum Day, so with the morning free, we finally visited the Bern Historical Museum. Great! Looking forward to going back and seeing more as we only had 3 hours there.
I came back to Bern to join Jon after his rehearsal, ostensibly to go to a co-worker’s party, but due to a mix-up resulting from the language barrier, we went to the wrong address and ended up simply eating dinner at a—fortunately very good—Japanese restaurant which we would never have found without the mix-up.
With only Sunday to bike, we chose to circle the Gurten, Bern’s massive hill-park. Jon planned a GPS route of 48km and we took off, knowing with cooler temps and a shorter ride, it would be a light day. Yeah, well, I wish I could show you the elevation profile!
Anyway, we accomplished the task set before us, feeling rather proud when we analyzed our track: a max of 14% uphill grade and 21% down! Home again, home again, and naptime for you know who.
The Plan: bike 90+km to Yverdon-les-Bains, overnight at a hotel, bike home along the north side of Lake Neuchatel. The actual trip: bike 96km over too many hills in too hot weather with too little sunscreen, try to lift legs to walk through Yverdon, collapse in worse-than-basic hotel room, eat hotel’s petite dejeuner (not a Swiss-style fruhstuck), strain over steep terraced hillsides to Neuchatel, let the SBB do the pedaling from there to Bern. In other words, we had another great weekend! Herewith the pics.
Tiny Murten has a big reputation. It has a nice medieval old town and a nearly fully preserved town wall. We sampled the local specialty: Nidelkuchen (cream cake).
Throughout Switzerland there are remains of Roman rule. We climbed the hill in Avenches to see its ancient amphitheater.
North of Yverdon are menhirs (standing stones), some five thousand years old. They were reset in their original positions in 1986, one of many clusters of Neolithic stone circles and dolmens near Lake Neuchâtel.
A brief pause, after climbing through the vineyards, by an old palace. There was someone working on the landscaping, so I casually asked him (in French) whether this place was his. He told me no, but it is for sale. Perhaps I would like to buy?
The Eglise Collégial, Neuchâtel’s Cathedral, has a 1372 ‘Monument to the Counts’, memorial statues to its rulers. During the Reformation, the town folk so identified this as purely Neuchâtelois that they refused to tear it down when the rest of the artwork was being destroyed.
Beside the Eglise stands a former chateau, now a public building where government business is conducted. The courtroom’s walls are lined with heraldic shields which tell the history of the town’s rulers.
Itinerary: Saturday: bike ride through peaceful farmland to Thun and back
Sunday: hike an Alpine meadow with friends
Sounds like a quiet weekend, getting in touch with nature? It certainly started that way. The route we planned to Thun was not the shortest, for it took us through the Valley of the Gurbe River, renowned for cabbages and sauerkraut.
Gliding over the rolling hills, we passed classic Swiss scenery and paused in an ancient and amazingly serene rock church in Amsoldingen.
Then we rolled on down to Thun where the quiet ended. Thun was in festival mode. Streets were lined with booths and packed with people, amusement rides hard at work, and rock bands blaring as though they all wanted to be heard at the other end of the lake. We chose to leave Thun’s castle for another day and followed the edge of the Thun See to Schloss Oberhofen (Schloss is German for palace, more than a home, less than a fortress, usually pretty elaborate residence).
It was a beautiful day for a wedding—we saw at least 3 in progress, including in the courtyard at Oberhofen.
Our return route was more direct and that meant, unfortunately, quite a bit of time within earshot of the heavily trafficked A6 freeway. But we had clocked another 84 km on the bike and ticked off a few more Swiss sights.
Sunday, ah, that will be peaceful, yes? Our friends picked us up at the all-too-early hour of 7:15. We drove (via the A6) back south beyond Thun to Engstligenalp where Jon risked life and limb to try Klettersteig (aka via ferrata). This is climbing with a harness along a permanently-installed cable line. I took the easy way up in a gondola.
I arrived at the top at 9:30. It was just me and maybe 6 other people in view in the whole meadow. After a short nap atop a hillock, I woke to see a line of people walking the trail, including quite a few in wheelchairs! Switzerland believes in access: this meadow includes 5 km of wheelchair-accessible trails so everyone can get their dose of Alpine air. Climbing down from my perch, I started hiking with the crowd, passing the two restaurants, one of which had live music. It took walking almost an hour to the other side of the bowl to find ‘quiet’. There I could hear only the rippling streams and cowbells, the latter rather noisy in their own right. Jon and friends completed their climb and we pic-nic’d by a cold mountain stream.
Weather was iffy: Saturday looked probably good, but Sunday was given a high chance of rain. That and high hotel rates led us to make our ride yesterday round-trip. We knew that if at any point it was too difficult, we could head to a train station and get home easily and cheaply. So, off to Burgdorf, an 86 km. route on Swiss Regional bike trails. With a new rear bike rack and case holding our emergency gear (those rains might come early), even riding on gravel paths was easy. Heading toward Langnau and the Emme River (Emmental means valley of the Emme and yes, that’s where the cheese comes from), was a bit of a climb. Then we had a gradual downhill from Langnau through and beyond Burgdorf, ending with a smaller uphill climb to home. In Burgdorf itself we were entertained by a typically high-priced Swiss café and a lovely little castle, where we learned a little about antique ceramics, the Swiss gold rush and making linen.
The friends who visited with us in Switzerland then went on to La Raincy, a suburb of Paris, where they had a house exchange. We followed on Friday the 27th and stayed through 8/1, which is Swiss National Day and a holiday for Jon. Although the house was a ways out of Paris, they had chosen this exchange because it included the use of a car. Well, folks, after one day re-visiting Paris (I had been there in 1997, Jon and I in 2005), we were deeply grateful for that car. Our first day we took the train into Paris and spent most of the day touring the Louvre. Yes, we loved the museum again. But getting there and back, through filth and trash and smells and crowds, including a pickpocket attempt, left us wanting no more.
So for the next 3 days we did what we couldn’t do when we were there before with the bike: toured the countryside in every direction: Giverny (totally loved it), Rouen, Vaux le Vicomte (the lesser-known inspiration for Versailles with much smaller crowds) , Fontainebleau & Chartres (the last two have seen recent improvement and we expect will get better with each year).
Our final day we again walked through Paris, visiting the Rodin Museum and a map store we had discovered on our last visit, Au Vieux Campeur, finding two of the maps we will need for our sabbatical next year.
We arrived home in time to watch a Swiss Day parade, bonfire and fireworks, then we ran home in a sudden downpour.