In Bern Jon joined 2 different choruses, Canto Classico and Berner Bach Chor. Each group plans various projects through the year and members chose which ones they want to sign up for. Wanting to get as much experience singing here as possible, Jon signed up for everything possible, leading to 7 concerts in two weeks, plus extra last minute rehearsals. Since many of the concerts are out of town, we also got around Switzerland in a new way.
12/8 Geneva – Offenbach at Victoria Hall
See 12/9/12 post for a description of our day in Geneva.
12/9 Bern – Weihnacht at Marienkirche
A free Christmas concert put on for the church where Berner Bach Chor rehearses.
12/11 Luzern – Offenbach at the KKL
In Lucerne's massive KKL hall there were even folks in the nose-bleed section to hear the popular Vesselina Kasarova.
12/16 Basel – Offenbach at the Stadtcasino
Arriving early for the rehearsal and concert, we were able to visit another Weihnacht Market, fortunately just outside the concert hall. Outside Basel’s red sandstone Cathedral, we listened to a Christmas Tuba concert!
Stadtcasino in Basel
12/19 Bern – Haydn’s Creation at the Kultur-Casino
Bern's Kultur-casino has hosted concerts and events since 1909.
Lace-like ceiling decoration
A side room where the choir got ready.
12/20 Bern – Offenbach in Bern’s Kultur-Casino
This show was also in Bern’s Kultur-Casino. Since MC had seen the show twice already, she had the night off.
12/22 Biel – Haydn’s Creation
Biel's Concert Hall
The Haydn was performed in conjunction with the Biel Orchestra.
The Haydn was performed with the Baden-Baden Philharmonic and a famous soloist, Vessalina Kasarova
A concert in Geneva, in the famous Victoria Hall, ooh sounds lovely! Might as well go early and spend the day seeing this famous city by the lake. Research turned up a few architectural sites:
Schtroumpf's Buildings, designed by a brain trust, meant to be an alternative to concrete box high-rises.Jon's preferred architectural style: naked ladies, any era.Brunswick Monument, a mausoleum designed and paid for by its inhabitant
Unexpectedly, the timing of the concert coincided with Geneva’s unique holiday, “Escalade”. This commemorates the day, Dec. 12 1602, when Geneva fought off a stealth attack by the Catholic Savoyards, saving the independent city. The Savoy troops tried to scale the city walls in the dead of night to open the gates from within, but were seen. The alarm was raised, battle ensued, victory was theirs. The most famous anecdote from the night was about La Mere Royaume, a mother of 14, who threw hot vegetable soup out her window onto some Savoy soldiers (some say she threw the whole cauldron). So the celebration includes vegetable soup and chocolate ‘cauldrons’ filled with marzipan. In the old town lots of people wore costumes of the era, muskets and cannon were fired throughout the day, drum and fife bands played, and of course Vin Chaud (hot wine) flowed.
17th Cen. costumes, roasting pigs, spinning yarn, all part of EscaladeThe town hall guide lectured at length in French. We were not along in escaping by a side door.
Geneva's St. Pierre Cathedral was closed, but we listened to a large drum & fife band.
We loved that we were there for this special event. And we did enjoy our day. But it was very cold and the wind off the great Lac Leman did not make it any easier.
Unlike me, these birds didn't seem to mind the wind off Lac Leman.Temporary ice rink in Parc des Bastions
The concert was quite a success. Knowing the hall had at least 200 seats still available and worried that we might not receive a mailed ticket in time, we did not purchase one for me, planning to do so on arrival. Finding the front door still locked at the pre-concert rehearsal time, we were rescued by a chorus member who noticed us and took us around to the side door. Entry here is guarded, so as we go in this gentleman, who already had his own backstage pass, points to Jon and says to the guard “Tenor” and to me and says “Sopran”. He’s a Czech and lied to authority as though it were the most natural thing in the world! We were given passes and went on into the dressing rooms.
We imagine one day "Petker" will be carved on the face of Victoria Hall.
It’s fun to be allowed backstage, but it got better. Another member, who speaks a little English and recognized me, took me up staircases, through the orchestra’s prep room and into the main hall for the rehearsal. A rare treat to see this gorgeous space empty and to sit right up front (in the 125chf seats).
Victoria Hall Interior - Belle Epoque elegance
The pièce de résistance, as the Genevois might say, was a TV in the dressing room which broadcast a camera pointed at the stage so I could skip buying a ticket and watch the show from there!
How well named a town! Jon’s chorus would be rehearsing with the Baden-Baden Orchestra, bussing there and back, thus taking a full day for a 4-hour rehearsal. Room on the bus meant I could tag along to see the town. What is Baden-Baden famous for? Baths, of course. Their old Friedrichsbad is the most traditional of all. http://www.carasana.de/en/friedrichsbad/home/
Some doctor figured out a system of bathing, with showers and saunas and plunges, each for a certain number of minutes at a specific degree for the perfect bathing experience. 17 steps! I had to do something while Jon was singing. So I ‘took the baths’. And they left me super clean and relaxed and invigorated. Three hours of watering my body. Plus a few minutes of being soaped up and scrubbed and ‘creamed’, a lotion application by a masseuse, definitely not a massage, but still pleasant. The building itself is wonderful, very ‘Belle Époque’ luxury. Soaking in fully-tiled rooms with domed ceilings, arched entries, and the occasional painting or Greek-style statue, I felt the experience was more about the ambience than the water!
The timing for the rehearsal was also fortunate as Baden-Baden’s Christkindlmarkt was in full swing right outside the rehearsal hall.
Buildings decorated for ChristmasOutdoor light displays are generally less elaborate than in the US, so this Lowenbrau Weihnachtsgarten is exceptional.Santas aplentyMiniature houses at a Christkindlmarkt booth.
We found a very special Christmas gift for friends and tasted the German version of Gluhwein and Heisen Met (mulled wine and hot mead).
Frescoes in the porch of the Baden-Baden Trinkhalle which was built to serve the local waters to tourists, now also serves coffee, cakes and tourist information.Jon rehearsed in this side hall of the Casino.
Weihnachtsmarkt, or Christmas Market, began in Bern on Saturday 12/1. Jon and I walked into Bern, taking side streets just to see something different. We spent most of the day strolling through the Christmas Market in Romerplatz, the downtown stores, and the handcraft market by the cathedral. Booths in the Romerplatz were sturdily built with wood platforms, walls and roofs, rather permanent looking though they’ll only be there 3 weeks. Overlooking the Christmas Market from the second story of a temporary tavern. Of course we were sipping "Gluhwein".For Alpenhorn players who want something new
We found a beautiful edelweiss shirt for Jon and a couple small gifts for friends here, then headed home by a different route. Craft market by the Cathedral
Jon wore his pedometer for our little trip and was happy to see over 17,000 total steps for the day, which amounts to 15km!
Now (Sunday) snow is falling softly but steadily. Our world is white again. This time many of the trees have finished dropping their leaves, so we’re looking out on a graceful tracery of branches, as we try to keep warm in this decidedly under-heated apartment. Hot chocolate almond milk, anyone?
