Only in France

Here we sit …

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In 2009 we had to cross rivers by ferries numerous times with no problems. I think our longest wait was about 15 minutes.

But now we are in France, and the ferry closes for lunch! We will be stuck here for almost 2 hours!

At first we thought it would be ok because we had planned to have lunch at the ferry’s cafe – until we realized the cafe is on the other side. There are no facilities or towns on this side, so all we have is our emergency rations, and once again we will most likely not make it to our destination today.

The rain has finally stopped, and it is a little warmer, maybe into the 60s, but we still have a strong headwind.

Ah, and in case you are wondering – this is an odd ferry. It is, in fact, called a transporter bridge. It is a platform suspended from cables over a high span so ships can pass under. I’ll post more pics later … when it opens and we finally get to cross.

Evolution of Technology

This is our third European cycling tour and it is interesting to see how each was planned, executed, recorded, and shared with our friends.

2005 Netherlands, Belgium, and France
For this trip we did not camp, so we only needed one of the Bike Friday suitcases for our trailer. But we managed to squeeze in the smallest laptop that Dell made in those days. We did not pre-plan our route, so we bought maps along the way and each night we would plan the next day’s route and download it from the Laptop onto our Garmin Etrex GPS. One or two days was about all the information it could hold.

Jon pre-made a website with a blank page for each day. We were able to use the laptop to fill in the pages as we went.

But the only Internet connection we had was via the laptop modem. Some hotels had wifi, but it was always way more expensive than the modem/telephone, so we never used them. We had brought a list of toll free phone numbers for our provider, for each country – and we literally had a set of country-specific phone plugs with open wires we would experiment with at each hotel, until we got a dial tone.

Our total cost of Internet connections for the trip was about $36. With that we were able to check email, update the website, and do any other browsing, weather reports, etc. that we needed.

2009 Vienna to Amsterdam
Four years later, and we were bringing the camping gear with us. This required both Bike Friday suitcases in the trailer so we needed to cut down on weight. No more 8lbs of laptop, charger, power converter, mouse, etc.

But it also meant that we would have no way to update the GPS each day, so we had to get a larger one, a Garmin 60CSx. And this meant that we had to pre-plan the entire route. We did that by using Bikeline maps purchased and hand delivered to us at Christmas by friends living in London. Otherwise, shipping would have been twice the cost of the maps themselves.

We completely maxed out the memory of the GPS, even having to enlist help from Garmin support to get the last bits loaded. But it worked very well, and even though Jon still had the Bikeline maps on his handlebars, MCs instructions on when to turn, kept us moving along quite nicely.

For the laptop replacement we went with an iPhone 3G. It didn’t even need a power converter, just adapters for each country. But ATT’s roaming policies totally suck, and we ended up spending over $400 to maintain only the barest minimum of Internet connection! We could only use 50Mb per month, which allowed us only the ability to check email, weather reports, and Facebook postings. We had to make sure the phone was shut down at all other times.

To keep our friends updated, we used Facebook postings. The bad part was that this forced anyone who wanted to follow us, to sign up for Facebook. After returning home we created a trip website that included the Facebook posting, additional text, and the photos.

2013 Eaux de France
So here we are today. Another 4 years have passed, and we have updated some, and refused to update other things. Jon wanted to do at least one more trip without having to buy all new electronics. We still have just the iPhone 3G, and the Garmin 60CSx, but how we use them has changed.

ATT finally let us unlock the iPhone, so we now have a French SIM card with all the telephone and Internet we need, all the time. No more searching for wifi, and it looks like our total bill will be back down around $85. This makes it so much easier to check on accommodations down the road.

In fact, knowing that we would have Internet, we were able to pre-post all the details of our route, including things we want to see, on our website, and we can view them as we travel down the road.

As for the Garmin GPS, this trip is longer than 2009, so we had to change what we could store. We first created the full routes, which are posted online and used to determine the distances. Then we created abbreviated routes that would fit on the GPS. These routes only include corners where we need to turn, and a few other key points.

Now, when we reach a turn, MC has to zoom in, because the actual point has to be placed a few dozen meters down the road we need to take – since there is no guarantee that the line to the next turn will be heading in the right direction. It does make it a little more difficult, but it would’ve cost $400+ to upgrade to a GPS capable of handling the full routes.

The other big change for this trip, is that knowing we would have a lot of gravel and single track, we have spent the past year getting rid of the trailer and outfitting the bike with panniers. This was especially hard because the pannier system needed to not interfere with the bicycle’s ability to fold.

In the front we had to order a special rack from the factory in Oregon, and pay the international shipping and Swiss import tax. The other 3 racks we found locally in Switzerland and all have quick release.

Of course this means several things: our load must be even smaller, we can no longer lock everything up, and we need extra rain proofing. But it is so much easier to maneuver, and sidewalk cafes of Europe make locking up much less necessary.

And finally, as you the reader are aware, We now have WordPress on our website, so we are sharing this trip through a blog. Only caveat is that without a laptop we can only post pictures taken with the iPhone. When we get home, and back to a computer, we plan to replace them with the higher quality photos from our camera.

A bit more Water than we Wanted

Perhaps we are getting what we deserved, since we named the trip, “The Waters of France”.

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We’ve been slogging it through the wetlands, forests, and dunes of the Atlantic shoreline for the past two cold and rainy days. It reminds us of Mendocino in February, complete with yellow flowering broom.

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Margaret, of Margaret’s Chambre D’Hote, said it reminds her of December weather, though a little warmer. But she said two weeks ago it was sunny and warm, and people were starting to swim in the ocean.

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Now it’s in the 50s and our only respite has been the ferry crossing to Royan. The days ahead may be a little drier, but still just as cold, and even though we have now turned north, the winds have now decided to start coming out of the north as well.

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The paths continue to be excellent, but between the rain, cold, headwinds, and other cycling traumas, we are falling a bit behind where we hoped to be by now.

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And that was southern France

15 years ago Jon spent 10 weeks bicycling east to the Atlantic Ocean. Now we have just spent 10 days bicycling west to the Atlantic Ocean.

We have seen southern France in the springtime from atop a bicycle. It is a beautiful, lush countryside with vineyards and fields of poppies, wheat and forests. From canals lined with giant sycamores to coastal pine forests, small villages to bike friendly cities, and a castle or two just to remind us of it’s rich history.

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Now we have reached the next of our waters of France, the Atlantic coast. Unlike the Mediterranean it is highly unlikely there will be any swimming involved. Temperatures have dropped into the 50s, and we are wearing almost everything we brought.

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We also would like to note that we used a lot of Google Street View in the planning of our route. For the most part it has worked out very well. But Street View does appear to leave a few things out … like torrential downpours, horrible headwinds, mosquitoes, and thick clouds of gnats!

As it is in North America, European prevailing winds also come barreling down on the westward cyclists with a ferocity that reduces us to nothing more than glaring back at the smiling joyful cyclists as they coast by at much higher speeds.

One thing we did learn from Street View, was that some of the bike paths in the sand are unusual, and we’ve already encountered them.

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They are narrow strips of concrete, unfortunately not as smooth as shown here – but often decaying with large, bike-tire-eating potholes. After already losing our rear wheel – we were happy to learn that our route north will be mostly forest roads and will avoid most of these sections.

So tonight we rest along the shores in Carcans, and tomorrow continue our coastal journey north to the Loire.

Bordeaux

Question of the day: will we be in Bordeaux, or will Bordeaux be in us? If we are lucky, it will be both!

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Not only a very beautiful city, full of parks and fountains, but we also give Bordeaux a big thumbs up for being a bike-friendly town. We were able to ride all over the central city very easily, with well marked lanes, directional signs, and stop lights for bikes.

In fact, we stopped in at Cyvea bicycle shop, and after their excitement in seeing our Bike Friday, they told us the entire central city was transformed in just the last 10 years. Parking was built underground, trams were put in, and many streets were made into pedestrian ways. Even the buildings are being cleaned up from the dark stains of age and pollution.

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We did have some trouble with a couple of our GPS points. One Jon was skeptical of was a Roman Amphitheater, which appeared to be in the middle of a residential neighborhood. But we went to find it anyway.

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It turned out to be correct. In fact, the place had started to fall apart by the 3rd century, and the neighborhood grew up on top of the ruins just a few centuries later. Only this one gate remains.

We have now started our rail-trail to Lacanau Ocean, and plan to reach the Atlantic tomorrow.

Goodbye Canals, Hello Rail-Trails

Today we said goodbye to the canals that have been our home for the past 9 days.

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We reached the western end of the canals at Le Reole, headed north through the hills, including a 12% grade we cycled right up without walking, then picked up a rail-trail heading into Bordeaux.

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Now instead of being entertained by locks and canal boats, it will be former rail stations and tunnels until we reach the Atlantic coast.

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Trail Angels

Adventure Cycling has a designation for people who volunteer to help cyclists along their 40k+ miles of bike routes across the US. If we could do it in Europe, we would nominate our friend Lieven as a Trail Angel.

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Lieven not only picked us up with our broken rim, but took us to several bike shops and was our French interpreter with many sales and service people. Finally driving us all the way to Bordeaux where he found the right wheel, back to a local shop that did the replacement, and even to a spa to wait for the work to be completed!

Jon also had a cut that had become infected, and we needed to see a doctor. So we got a small sample of the French medical system. Lieven took us to a local clinic, where there was just a doctor – no receptionist, no nurse, no 2 more staff to handle insurance, records, and billing! We just went in without an appointment, the doctor looked at the cut and made out a prescription, and then (just to show off to the Americans?) didn’t even charge us! The prescription however, did cost us $3.50 at the pharmacy. 🙂 Why do we Americans put up with the lies of the Republicans and our Corporate Capitalist driven medical system?

Then we ended the day with a most unusual pizza, made in a van that parks near Lieven’s house on the canal. The van has a wood fired pizza oven inside!

Staying with a Friend

Today was the only day of the entire ride when we were going to be staying with a friend of our first hosts in Montauroux, Don and Bob. Little did we know when the day started how important and extremely lucky that would be.

All we knew was that we had to get up early (for us), as the hotel would only serve breakfast at 7:00 – and, it was going to be our first day riding in the rain. What a test it was of our new equipment. We rode in a heavy downpour for the first 3 hours of the day. Everything stayed dry … except us!

We still have never found a solution of rain gear for cyclists that you don’t end up sweating inside of. Only Jon’s new booties worked, so he still had dry feet. Our experience continues to be that the only thing cycling rain gear is good for – is keeping us warm.

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Needless to say, we pretty much had the whole canal to ourselves all morning. We saw only one other couple traveling like us, and a jogger.

We are traveling a section of the canal where it does not go the same route as the roads and cities. Hence there are few facilities, restaurants, groceries, or places to stay which are on, or even near, the bike path. In our preparation research, MC often added points on our maps where we could find things like food.

We were going to arrive at a food location around 1:00 pm, so it seemed perfect for lunch, and only 26km from our friend’s house. Even the rain had almost stopped.

It seems, however, that our now 10,000+km bicycle had other ideas for us. It started 1.5km from the lunch stop. Jon noticed an odd wobble in the back of the bike. We had a flat tire – and as usual, it was in the rear tire – much harder to take off and fix.

Since many places will stop serving by 1:30, and it appeared to be a slow leak – we refilled the tire and continued into town. Jon fixed the tire while MC got us some sandwiches at the grocery.

As we finished up, Jon put the tire back on, and MC actually took this photo as he turned back to tell her, for only the second time in all our travels – that we were seriously hosed!

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Not since we were hit by a car in Amsterdam, in 2005, has anything happened that has completely brought us to a standstill. Apparently our 4.5 days of rocky, muddy trails has taken it’s toll, and our rear wheel rim has begun to split!

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We might have been able to limp into Bordeaux, but our new friend Lieven was able to come and rescue us. We even got to do a little site-seeing on the way back to his place.

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Including things we would have missed just riding along the canal – like this Rembrandt, hanging in a local church.

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Anyway, back to our ailing bicycle, we spent the next several hours visiting local bike shops, even calling back to the company in Eugene Oregon, who then contacted it’s European distributors. We finally located a possible rim in Bordeaux and will be heading there in the morning.

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We finished the day as we often do after difficult times in Europe, with a fantastic gourmet meal …

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Long and Straight

We can characterize this stretch of canal as one long straight section after another, punctuated by small curves every few kilometers.

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Along this same theme, we also crossed the longest canal/water bridge we’ve ever seen. After the trees, the bridge continues another equal distance over a broad river.

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Our most exciting event of the day, was when we passed 10,000 km on the tandem odometer!

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Overall it was a very pleasant day, with only light breezes, plenty of sunshine, and lunch in Montech …

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La Trek of Toulouse

Toulouse is called “La Ville en Rose” due to it’s many buildings of red brick. We learned of the Romans who first brought brick making technology and much of the rest of the city’s history from Penny of Toulouse Walking Tours. She did an excellent job of winding together the different threads of the city’s stories. After the tour, we followed her suggestions, as well as our previous research, to continue exploring.
First we enjoyed a drink in Le Bibent, a gorgeous salon with the thickest hot chocolate ever! Then to the Salle des Illustres art museum.

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A few churches and a simple lunch later, we made our way home through the large park beside our hotel.

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