We are entering into perhaps the most decadent portion of our tour. Over the next several days we do not intend to travel far because the density of Chateaus is reaching its peak. We will also be doing a bit of weaving north and south of the river to visit each one.
Today we had a short 12k to Villandry, noted for it’s fantastic gardens.
MC particularly got inspired by it’s new Jardin de Soleil, Garden of the Sun.
We then ended the day with a stay at the Domain du Clos de l’Epinay Chambre d’Hotes.
And yes, that is the view out our window this evening. We are surrounded by vineyards.
We had to climb a long hill to get here, but that was quickly forgotten when, after arriving we had a personal tasting. We tried 7 different wines, all made from the same 2009 harvest. It was amazing to discover how many different flavors can be derived just by changing when the grapes were picked and controlling the fermentation.
Our host, Marie-Claire was also able to finally enlighten us on what an Appellation is, and we now understand why a few days ago we found Muscadets, then Chinens, now Vouvrays, and soon we will be tasting Sancerres! Though, not until after a few more Chateaus.
The only downside of the day was Tours. The Loire Velo runs right through the center of town, but it was horrible. High traffic with the bicycle lanes only intermittent and mixed right in. When we got to a pedestrian-only section, it was so crowded we couldn’t ride and had to find an alternate route back in the traffic. We by-passed Tours in 2005, and wished we had again this trip – but trusted that the official route would be ok.
It didn’t help that the other reason we stayed on route was because we had ordered replacement tires from a shop called Detours de Loire in the heart of Tours. We ordered them 8 days ago and they assured us they had them in stock. But they did not, and now we are left to either have some shipped from the US, or hope we make it the rest of the trip on the ones we have – which are showing a lot of wear from the continuing bad paths.
We can’t believe how irresponsible a bike shop can be – and warn others to watch out for them. They appear to be the largest rental business in the valley, and are trying to be the first Bike Friday distributor in France, but they need to get their act together!