Germany – JMCW

Das Weindorf

July 3, 2012July 3, 2012JonMarc

Our 2^nd weekend being driven into Germany by our friends Simon and Michaela, this time to stay with their parents and go to the local ‘Weindorf’ or ‘wine village’. This is somewhat different from an American style wine event. We are accustomed to tastings where you take a small sip of each wine to see if you like it. Here they sell small glasses–1/10^th liter—of their latest vintages for 2 Euros ($3). By each of us getting a different variety, we could each sample 4 wines at a time. However, it’s hard to throw out wine, so it was more like going out drinking, than like sampling to find what you want to buy. Unfortunately, none of the wines were very impressive, although Jon did find a varietal he had never heard of which he liked: Muller-Thurgau.

Saturday I stayed in bed with a sore neck, while Jon ventured out shopping with our friends. Prices are generally lower in Germany, so a lot of people try to stock up while there. Unfamiliarity with the stores and the products proved a major hurdle, but he did find me a yoga mat (so I can take better care of my sore body).

Saturday night it was back to the Weindorf (which carries on for 5 days) for Jon and the others. But the weather gods were not in a good mood and they all got soaked by a classic Iowa thunderstorm. The entire area, with its rolling hills of corn and heavy humidity has reminded Jon of his home in Iowa, so this just capped off the experience.

We broke up the long drive home by touring the Schloss at Ludwigsburg and having dinner in Konstanz by the Bodensee. This palace was modeled after Versailles, but is in much better condition with grounds to match. While pictures are not permitted inside, Simon managed to sneak a few. But they only hint at the phenomenal decorations. I asked in particular about some of the vases I saw and was told most were authentic 16^th/17^th cen. Chinese and Japanese. Many exquisite pieces of furniture, wall coverings, embroidered chairs, etc. One of the places you never hear about but are so glad you got to see.

Kein Mozart

June 25, 2012June 25, 2012JonMarc

The weeks are beginning to float by. We have now been in Switzerland for longer than any of our other Europe visits. This past weekend was a chore to set up, but turned out fine. First, we were going to take a train to Wurzburg to visit a friend and hear a concert during their Mozartfest. Back and forth went the emails. Research on the web for concert times and availability, for train arrangements, etc. Whoa, Nelly—did you know how far Wurzburg is from Bern? Far if you’re looking at train prices—almost $400. Add a symphony in the Residenz and you’ve got yourself a pricey weekend. Still, we’re thinking so much of what we are choosing to do here is based on the once-in-a-lifetime value, that okay, if that’s what it takes, we’ll do it.

Step in the generous German, Simon. He works with Jon and when we were first here, he drove us to a large shopping center so we could load up on groceries with the aid of his car. The car to our rescue again, this time since he and his wife would be going into Germany for a wedding that weekend, they would drive us most of the way. He also checked the train possibilities and helped us with purchasing tickets when we got to the station. So from $400 down to $85 for train tickets. And the Mozart concert? Well, late as we were in making arrangements, we didn’t luck into any tickets, BUT our friend Marisa had looked around for “what’ll I do with my visitors” and came up with a gypsy/tango trio playing for free in the midst of a forest bedecked for a wild art show!! On Sunday we topped off the weekend with a fun concert in Stuttgart put on by Simon and Michaela’s old choral group, love songs with a humorous twist, albeit mostly in German. A once-in-a-lifetime experience and free besides. Our weekend cost about as much as pizza and a movie in Bern!

Gypsy/Tango music in the midst of a forest art show

The Next 175

May 29, 2012May 29, 2012JonMarc

It felt like we were taking it easy. Yes, there were a few hills the first day. But we had so much time to cover not many kilometers (Schaffhausen to Basel in 3 days), that the pace seemed almost leisurely. Especially since through this area, the ambience is all lovely farmland, pretty little towns, and the swiftly flowing Rhine.

Schaffhausen is known for its oriels (bay windows above the ground floor). They were once a status symbol for the rich merchants in this town which was built up simply because shippers needed a place to off-load their goods in order to get around the falls.

Since the bikepath often took us along hiking paths through the woods along the river, we saw a few remains of cement bunkers, left from World War II. Often German territory is directly across the Rhine from Switzerland.

We stopped at Augusta Raurica a partially reconstructed Roman amphitheater, a little east of Basel. For another point of view, search on “Augusta Raurica, Augst, Switzerland” and zoom in on the satellite view.

Augusta Raurica--Augst, Switzerland — Augusta Raurica--How it was, how it is

The First 250

May 21, 2012May 21, 2012JonMarc

Too perfect to be true, but it is. The plan (the dream?) was 4 days biking by the Bodensee with 3 nights camping. The reality was 4 glorious days biking by the Bodensee with 3 nights spent being completely coddled by friends. I had not realized that a couple whom we let park in our driveway in America while they were vacationing there lives close to the Bodensee. When Jon mentioned this, I emailed them to see if they might be at home for a hello. They invited us to stay in their house for as much of the holiday as we liked. AND every night and morning they fed us a mountain of wonderful food (see 5/15/12 to understand how important this was) and entertained us with their company. I am hereby extending my assumptions of warmth and graciousness which were earlier granted to the Swiss to all of Germany. (I do hope I’m correct in doing so.)

BODENSEE DAY 1 Mostly the path takes us by farmlands, orchards, small towns, and a number of typically German permanent campgrounds filled tightly with tiny trailers. It’s a bit cold with the constant breeze across the water, but as Jon said, it’s great to be finally really comfortable because we’re on the bike and for us, this is what Europe is. Almost always we have a view of the huge lake and an unusually clear view of the Alps, so rare in summer, with sail boats dotting the water in the foreground. Then our first major hill: we walked beside the old fortress/castle, up the steep narrow lane lined with tiny shops, touristy but not kitschy. Following Google’s directions to our friends’ home, we climb another very steep hill, wondering if we’ve lost the path. And then we are in their town, and face yet another, fortunately somewhat shorter, hill to our rest for the night.

BODENSEE DAY 2 At our hosts’ suggestion, we ride back to Meersburg, ferry to Konstanz, and visit the garden isle of Reichenau, rather than the garden isle of Mainau which is expensive and requires a full day to visit, better when they are at the height of their flowering season. Reichenau is peaceful, lovely, and free. We go through Stein am Rhein, which is famous for it’s painted houses. We end our ride at Radolfzell and train back to Bermatingen.

Stein am Rhein painted houses — Stein am Rhein much photographed painted houses

BODENSEE DAY 3 With better instructions for avoiding the monster hill between Bermatingen and the lake, we slid down to Friedrichshafen to see the Zeppelin Museum. We were surprised to learn how very many of these airships had been built, how there were regular flights across the Atlantic (only four days to Brazil!), and how many were produced for military purposes. Then up along the coast to the cherry-sundae Birnau Cathedral, after pausing at a Middle Ages fair in Uhldingen.

Jon in the Grape Fields — The Path Less Traveled--Jon wanted to see if this path would get us to the Lake sooner

Bronze Age Village--Uhldingen — Reconstruction of Bronze Age Village at Uhldingen