Geneva in Winter

A concert in Geneva, in the famous Victoria Hall, ooh sounds lovely!  Might as well go early and spend the day seeing this famous city by the lake. Research turned up a few architectural sites:

Schtroumpf's Buildings

Schtroumpf's Buildings, designed by a brain trust, meant to be an alternative to concrete box high-rises.

Naked ladies clock

Jon's preferred architectural style: naked ladies, any era.

Brunswick monument

Brunswick Monument, a mausoleum designed and paid for by its inhabitant

Unexpectedly, the timing of the concert coincided with Geneva’s unique holiday, “Escalade”.  This commemorates the day, Dec. 12 1602, when Geneva fought off a stealth attack by the Catholic Savoyards, saving the independent city.  The Savoy troops tried to scale the city walls in the dead of night to open the gates from within, but were seen. The alarm was raised, battle ensued, victory was theirs.  The most famous anecdote from the night was about La Mere Royaume, a mother of 14, who threw hot vegetable soup out her window onto some Savoy soldiers (some say she threw the whole cauldron).  So the celebration includes vegetable soup and chocolate ‘cauldrons’ filled with marzipan.  In the old town lots of people wore costumes of the era, muskets and cannon were fired throughout the day, drum and fife bands played, and of course Vin Chaud (hot wine) flowed.

Escalade

17th Cen. costumes, roasting pigs, spinning yarn, all part of Escalade

Town hall lecture

The town hall guide lectured at length in French. We were not along in escaping by a side door.

 

Geneva's Cathedral

Geneva's St. Pierre Cathedral was closed, but we listened to a large drum & fife band.

We loved that we were there for this special event.   And we did enjoy our day.  But it was very cold and the wind off the great Lac Leman did not make it any easier.

Birds on Lac Leman

Unlike me, these birds didn't seem to mind the wind off Lac Leman.

Ice Rink in Parc Bastion

Temporary ice rink in Parc des Bastions

The concert was quite a success.  Knowing the hall had at least 200 seats still available and worried that we might not receive a mailed ticket in time, we did not purchase one for me, planning to do so on arrival.  Finding the front door still locked at the pre-concert rehearsal time, we were rescued by a chorus member who noticed us and took us around to the side door.  Entry here is guarded, so as we go in this gentleman, who already had his own backstage pass, points to Jon and says to the guard “Tenor” and to me and says “Sopran”.  He’s a Czech and lied to authority as though it were the most natural thing in the world!  We were given passes and went on into the dressing rooms.

Victoria Hall

We imagine one day "Petker" will be carved on the face of Victoria Hall.

It’s fun to be allowed backstage, but it got better.  Another member, who speaks a little English and recognized me, took me up staircases, through the orchestra’s prep room and into the main hall for the rehearsal.  A rare treat to see this gorgeous space empty and to sit right up front (in the 125chf seats).

Victoria Hall Interior

Victoria Hall Interior - Belle Epoque elegance

The pièce de résistance, as the Genevois might say, was a TV in the dressing room which broadcast a camera pointed at the stage so I could skip buying a ticket and watch the show from there!

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