We had been hearing about the big Swiss party called Fasnacht since long before we came here. Basel’s is the biggest, Lucerne’s is the noisiest, Fribourg’s is also highly recommended. Which shall we see? Any of those 3 would require train rides, hotel bills, and Jon taking off work (it’s a multi-day party) to “do it right”. So we decided to simply go to the last day of Bern’s Fasnacht and see the parade and hear their “Monster Konzert”.
We were in place, waiting with 1,000’s of others behind barriers lining the street in preparation for the parade, well positioned with a view straight down the street. Finally, here they come: half a dozen men in flapping green, red and yellow costumes with HUGE cowbells on their hind ends that clanged with each step. And there they go: into the McDonalds on the corner.
Hunh? Is that it? Wait. Wait. Wait. Oh, now I hear a band. Where are they? Oops, we’re facing the wrong direction! We worm through the crowd, find some short people to stand behind, and for 2 hours watch the over 50 bands and other miscellaneous groups pass by. Tunes were nearly recognizable: ABBA, Bob Marley, John Denver.
Unlike American parades, there were few floats, none mechanized. One was a big white ship with sailors, with an outhouse on the back that the swinging door showed was in use. Another was a castle attended by its dragon and knights with a cannon shooting purple confetti. MC got a direct hit.
But it was the costumes, make-up and big fake heads that were so different from what we have ever seen. Fantastical, brilliantly colorful, and unique. Each group or band had a theme–similar colors, fabrics and style and usually the same make-up–but each individual had their own details, making them seem both elaborate and ragtag.
After the parade, the bands scattered about the city, on different corners or bandstands that had been set up. This was their “Monster Konzert”.
The streets were lined, as for any event, with vendors, some selling confetti or kid toys, but most offering food. We headed home a little after sunset. Half a day of partying being enough for us.
